The Black Lipstick Revival: Schiaparelli Makes It Couture

Once a symbol of rebellion, black lipstick takes center stage on the most prestigious runway in Paris—redefining beauty, identity, and power.

At Schiaparelli’s latest couture presentation, there were crystal hearts, breastplates with sculpted anatomy, and miniature saddles worn as shoulder pads—classic elements of Daniel Roseberry’s bold, surrealist vision. But among all the theatrical details, it was something far simpler that stole the show: black lipstick.

This season, nearly every model walked the runway wearing a high-shine, inky-black lip. A few wore red, but the dominant look was unmistakably gothic. The makeup choice marked a notable shift for Schiaparelli, a house that typically leans toward subtlety in its beauty direction. Gone were the minimalist faces of past seasons—in their place, a rich, glossy darkness that added weight and mystery to each ensemble.

The makeup was created by none other than Dame Pat McGrath, who used her brand’s PermaGel Eye Pencil in Xtreme Black to create the intense pigment and shine. The result? A lip that felt sculptural in its own right—luxurious, daring, and utterly unforgettable.

Black lipstick has always lived on the edge of mainstream fashion. Though it found popularity in the goth and punk scenes of the 1980s, and has appeared on runways from Dior to Marc Jacobs, it’s rarely been embraced as a central feature in couture. Too dark. Too strange. Too “other.” Even within fashion’s famously open-minded circles, it’s long carried the mark of subculture—a signature for those who didn’t quite fit the mold.

That’s exactly why this moment matters.

For many, black lipstick is more than a beauty choice—it’s a personal and cultural symbol. It’s about identity, expression, and often, survival. To see it celebrated at one of fashion’s most revered houses is a quiet revolution. It tells the misfits, the alt kids, the bold ones who once felt like outsiders: you belong here, too.

Fashion editor Kelsey Stiegman has experienced this evolution firsthand. Before she was working in the industry, she was a self-proclaimed emo teenager in a small town—wearing black eyeshadow, skinny jeans, and enduring judgment for standing out. At the time, she didn’t fully understand how much her aesthetic choices were tied to her queerness and sense of self. But the black eyeliner and dark lips were always there—small acts of defiance and identity.

Years later, after moving to New York and exploring her style in new ways, those old rituals returned. Only now, they felt empowering. Products like Kylie Jenner’s “Dead of Knight” lip kit and KVD Beauty’s Everlasting Hyperlight Lipstick became staples—not just for fashion, but for affirmation. Black lipstick wasn’t a costume anymore; it was a mirror.

That’s why this season’s Schiaparelli show felt so meaningful. In an industry obsessed with transformation, it offered something rare: a return. A reminder that the beauty trends once pushed to the margins can become central, celebrated, even iconic.

Black lipstick is no longer a fringe statement—it’s couture.

More than a makeup trend, it’s a reclamation. A way to say, “I’m still here, and I’m not hiding.” It honors the version of yourself that once felt too weird or too loud, and gives her a place on the runway.

So yes, black lipstick is back—but this time, it doesn’t need to prove anything. It’s elegant. It’s commanding. And finally, it’s exactly where it belongs.