Simon Porte Jacquemus Unveils Spring 2023 Ready-To-Wear Collection

After a sandy runway on a Hawaiian beach and a serpentine walk through giant mounds of Camargue salt, Jacquemus finally returned to Paris for Spring 2023.

Many brands have presented their collections outside of the official calendar, going against the grain of fashion rules at full speed. Creative director Simon Porte Jacquemus presented his Spring-Summer 2023 collection titled “Le Raphia” on Monday, December 12, in France, especifically iat Le Bourget airport, just outside of Paris.

For this Spring 2023 RTW, the Jacquemus See Now, Buy Now collection paid tribute to the past and present by introducing new pieces while taking the brand’s background history into account, “I didn’t want to tell another story about myself. We wanted to reference our own history; the way the Maison would,” Simon Porte said. “The idea of something so summery, and almost making fun of ourselves with the hats too big, we wanted something super elegant.” He added.

The “girls you imagine in Portofino and Capri, going around with their hats and earrings and polka-dot pants” were the elements that inspired the creative designer. The collection featured 54 pieces, moving from blues and colour pastels to a cheerier beige, yellows and red.

The earthy tones in the ready-to-wear collection are signatures of Jacquemus looks featuring natural colours and textures, his signature oversized hats and tiny bags. In addition to colours, menswear maintained the playful drama as womenswear but remained more gender fluid.

“It’s the end of the summer. All these colours, all the dreams that I saw, that I had, go away. The smell, the beauty, The Raphia rain sweeps everything away as in a dream… Will I see again those big hats, those flower buckets, those prints? I think so.”

On the runway, there was a range of incredible pieces. Model Vittoria Ceretti wore the iconic twisted jersey micro dress. There were also baggy jeans washed with metallic silver paint, mini shorts, bathing suits, sheer ensembles with flower appliqués, knitwear, casual T-shirts, shaggy coats, and more.

In accessories, we could see the micro Chiquito bag, oversized raffia sunflower and giant daisy earrings, hay-like hats, and raffia hats. Bird-Esque coats and crop tops that shimmed also took centre stage as models walked. There were also polka dot pedal pushers paired with colossal white collars that felt reminiscent of his early days and an emphasis on denim to bring things back to earth.

Amongst the shoes, the line included clogs and strappy stilettos, while the pointy toes were implanted with a circle and a square on each toe, the brand’s own signature invention.

There was a plethora of celebrities and influencers in attendance for this event, Blackpink singer Jennie, actors Pamela Anderson, Vincent Cassel, Sophie Marceau and reality-TV personality Christine Quinn, who saw the 54 looks walk down the ramp in the raffia rain. Some previously mentioned celebrities wore incredible designs from the current collection, while others from the one Simon Porte showed in June. “You know, often they go more viral than the show,” he said. “It’s different, dressing real people who are not models. I love it. People find them relatable.”

A few other buzzy stars jetted across the pond for the off-calendar show, including Drag Race winner Symone, Richie Shazam and Emma Chamberlain. Throw in two Elite actors (Manu Rios, Arón Piper), and designers (Amina Muaddi, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Daniel Roseberry).

See Jacquemus’ “Le Raphia” collection below.