Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2026–2027 Embraces the Unknown With “The Call of the Void”
With its Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2026–2027 collection, The Call of the Void, Schiaparelli once again demonstrated its ability to transform couture into a form of artistic expression that exists beyond the boundaries of fashion.
Under the direction of Daniel Roseberry, the house presented a collection that explored uncertainty, instinct, and the creative possibilities that emerge when familiar rules are abandoned.
Following the triumph of his previous couture collection, The Agony and the Ecstasy, Roseberry admitted that he briefly believed he had uncovered a formula for success. However, the attempt to recreate that same magic led him to a different realization: creativity cannot be replicated through certainty or routine. Instead, it demands risk, experimentation, and a willingness to step into the unknown.
This idea became the foundation of The Call of the Void, inspired by the French expression l’appel du vide — the inexplicable urge to move toward uncertainty rather than retreat from it. The concept feels inherently connected to the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli, whose work was defined by surrealism, spontaneity, and a fascination with the unexpected.
Roseberry translated this philosophy into a collection that challenged traditional definitions of couture luxury. Rather than relying solely on silk, satin, and wool, Schiaparelli introduced unconventional materials such as silicone, latex, and heat-treated paint, elevating them through extraordinary craftsmanship and transforming them into sculptural forms.
Among the collection’s most memorable creations was a remarkably realistic silicone corset painted in a soft milky blue shade and paired with a voluminous skirt embellished with hundreds of flowers crafted from stretched hosiery, pearls, and wire. The piece blurred the line between garment and artwork, embodying the surrealist spirit that has long defined the house.
Elsewhere, natural flowers, fish scales, and fluid latex details appeared throughout the collection, creating silhouettes that felt as though they had emerged from a dream or an underwater fantasy. These unexpected elements introduced a sense of movement and transformation, reinforcing the collection’s exploration of the unknown.
The color palette drew heavily from marine life and nature, combining lobster pink, vibrant violet, luminous orange, and pale mint green with glossy black and raw ecru tones. Gold, an enduring Schiaparelli signature, remained central to the collection, appearing in sculptural embellishments that emphasized the house’s distinctive approach to ornamentation.
Roseberry also revisited some of Schiaparelli’s most recognizable house codes. The iconic jacket was reimagined through intricate embroidery and elaborate detailing, evolving from a classic wardrobe staple into a statement piece with dramatic presence and architectural structure.
Accessories continued the collection’s surrealist narrative. New interpretations of the Secret bag featured floral embroidery and crinoline-inspired details, while the Bubble shoe returned with futuristic silicone finishes. Jewelry designs inspired by seashells, octopus tentacles, and sea anemones further reinforced the dialogue between nature and imagination that ran throughout the collection.
More than a couture presentation, The Call of the Void reads as an artistic meditation on creativity itself. Roseberry examines the tension between control and intuition, suggesting that the most meaningful ideas often emerge when certainty is abandoned and curiosity takes its place.
Perhaps the collection’s greatest accomplishment lies in its redefinition of luxury. Silicone and latex are employed not as provocative novelties but as sophisticated materials capable of expressing craftsmanship, innovation, and beauty in entirely new ways.
Some looks may appear closer to contemporary art than conventional fashion, but that has always been central to Schiaparelli’s identity. The house has never sought to conform to established expectations; instead, it has consistently challenged and expanded them.
With The Call of the Void, Daniel Roseberry delivers a collection that is both technically impressive and conceptually rich, reaffirming haute couture’s unique ability to surprise, provoke, and push creative boundaries into exciting new territory.
