PFW: Chanel’s SS’23 Haute Couture Collection

Chanel’s runway show was an escape into the fantasy world that was born in Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment, beyond tweed, lace and tulle.

Haute couture week is all about showcasing the finest craftsmanship in the fashion world. This season for Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2023 Haute Couture show, creative director Virginie Viard organized a fantastic festival at the Grand Palais Éphémère. For this collection, Viard’s starting point was the mythical animal sculptures scattered around Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31 rue Cambron. French artist Xavier Veilhan has been chosen by Chanel for his now third collaboration with the fashion house, creating cardboard and wood animal sculptures, reminiscent of the objects in this historic apartment. This same is the place where Virginie Viard took Veilhan at the beginning of his work, including a collection of objects, sculptures and drawings depicting lions, deer, birds and camels. “For his third participation, I asked him to reinterpret the department’s bestiary and incorporate his own,” she says. “The entire universe of embroidery in the collection is turned toward the animal world.”

“From his Parisian studio to the Grand Palais Éphémère, artist Xavier Veilhan reflects on the dreamy animal sculptures that inhabit the decor of CHANEL’s Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture runway show. The bestiary marries his artistic universe with the symbols of Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31 rue Cambon, Paris.” – by CHANEL.

Veilhan was also behind the teaser presentation of the collection, which imagines a forest scene with puppies and horses, one of the artist’s and Maison’s favourite animals, which finally gives way to the buildings on rue Cambon.

As the show began, Chanel surprised the audience with a guest appearance by Princess Charlotte of Monaco, riding a horse dressed in a classic Chanel jacket. “The staging of the show came from a long-standing desire to work with Xavier Veilhan. His references to constructivism remind me of Karl Lagerfeld’s,” said Viard. “I like this similarity of spirit between us, now and through time. In addition to creating the show’s décor with its references to the avant-garde of the 1920s and 1930s, Xavier wanted to work with Carlota Casiraghi. Her artistic universe is full of horses and she is a skilled rider.”

Continuing the dialogue between past and present, Chanel transported guests to a large, almost dreamlike tent, where models emerged from gigantic animals made of wood, cardboard and paper. The first of the models emerged from inside Veilhan’s sculptures looking as playful as the animal figures that surrounded them. A plethora of creatures in delicate embroidery and ornamentation could be found throughout the collection; from rabbits to dogs, swallows and deer.

Y2K pleated mini skirts were featured throughout and doves and swallows made a synchronized appearance. The swallow print was a hallmark in the closets of adherents to the twee aesthetic, so it was only a matter of time before this motif made a comeback.

Viard had the fixed idea of a village parade using accessories such as top hats, bow ties and white gloves inspired by a majorette uniform. From pleated skirts to satin capes and tuxedo jackets to very short shorts, the majorette uniform as a source of inspiration has allowed Viard to explore wardrobe elements and turn them into garments suitable for a summer evening.

Dresses and jumpsuits all in lightness and refinement, overlays, transparencies, ruffles, pleats, thin straps and repainted lace, are made in silk tulle, taffeta, organza, crepe georgette and chantilly.

On the other hand, the runway show was star-studded with Chanel’s longtime friends of the iconic fashion house, including Tilda Swinton, Marion Cotillard, G-Dragon, Caroline de Maigret and Vanessa Paradis. All the guests looked stunning in their Chanel ensembles, even Apple Martin, made an appearance.