Milan Fashion Week S/S 2026: A Season of Change
Milan has always thrived on spectacle, but this season feels pivotal.
The city is alive with fresh creative voices, emotional farewells, and a contagious energy that confirms why Milan remains a cornerstone of the global fashion calendar. From Demna’s subtle Gucci reveal to Louise Trotter’s long-awaited Bottega Veneta debut, Spring/Summer 2026 is shaping up as unforgettable.
It began on 23 September with Demna’s Gucci “soft launch” — a short film, The Tiger, by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn, instead of a traditional runway. The next day, Simone Bellotti stepped in at Jil Sander, ushering in a new era after Luke and Lucie Meier’s decade-long chapter. Soon after, Dario Vitale, fresh from Miu Miu, unveiled his provocative Versace debut, while last night Louise Trotter introduced her vision at Bottega Veneta, joining the few women recently appointed to lead major houses.
This season balances nostalgia and renewal. With new leaders redefining iconic maisons and Milan preparing to honor Giorgio Armani’s extraordinary legacy, S/S 2026 proves the city can safeguard tradition while driving reinvention.
Milan isn’t just hosting shows this week — it’s writing history.
Adding to the poignancy, the fashion world is preparing a final tribute to Giorgio Armani, who passed earlier this month at 91. A commemorative show will close the week, celebrating the career that set the standard for Italian elegance.
Dolce & Gabbana
At the Metropol Theatre, Dolce & Gabbana staged a surreal fashion-meets-film pyjama party. The front row stole the show, with the cast of The Devil Wears Prada sequel — Meryl Streep, Stanley Tucci, and Simone Ashley — appearing in character, drawing gasps (and even a smile from Anna Wintour).
On the runway, the duo expanded their “Pyjama Boys” idea into womenswear: crystal-studded striped sets, sheer robes, lace bodysuits, and lingerie silhouettes, paired with everything from fluffy slippers to sky-high stilettos. With Meryl-as-Miranda Priestly smirking in approval, the collection captured both drama and the designers’ signature sensuality.
Versace
Dario Vitale’s first Versace outing took place at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, styled like the aftermath of a wild night — unmade beds, empty glasses, cigarette trays.
The clothes mirrored the scene: mini dresses with plunging backs flashing lingerie, oversized tailoring in vivid shades, metallic chainmail intertwined with baroque prints. Vitale steered clear of direct archive references, instead channeling Gianni’s rebellious spirit. “It’s about the feeling of Gianni, not just the garments,” he said backstage. His debut felt bold yet respectful, a strong step forward for the house.
Max Mara
Ian Griffiths looked to Madame de Pompadour for “Rococo Modern,” fusing 18th-century grandeur with the practicality of Max Mara.
The runway featured trench coats with flared “corona” sleeves, organza petals fluttering on dresses, and floral brocades offset by sharp tailoring. Thick black headbands recalled Pompadour’s coiffure, while the silhouettes balanced historic richness with modern ease. It was classic Max Mara: thoughtful, wearable, quietly commanding.
Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s latest womenswear collection at the Fondazione Prada explored the tension between uniformity and individuality in today’s algorithm-driven world. Stripping back the set to a stark orange-lacquered floor, the designers framed their vision around the idea of the uniform, reimagined as a source of protection, neutrality, and even elegance. Structured shirts and pleated trousers met playful details like jewel-toned earrings and mock-croc handbags, while flashes of glamour—opera gloves, crystals, and sculptural taffeta—broke through the sobriety. Skirts spliced with ruffles and pleats, as well as draped tops, embodied the designers’ pursuit of “shape without structure.” Ultimately, the collection embraced adaptability and autonomy, offering women the freedom to compose their own identities through clothing, moving away from rigid forms toward a vision of liberation both physical and psychological.
Fendi
Silvia Venturini Fendi’s second season leading both lines exuded joy. Set against Marc Newson’s colorful block seating, the collection envisioned a “future summer” both nostalgic and modern.
Sportswear prevailed: pleated skirts with toggles, translucent shearling-trimmed sweatsuits, bold woven totes, and the return of the Peekaboo bag, this time with a sequined lining. The result was playful yet polished — a reminder of Fendi’s ability to merge fun with luxury.
