Extravagance Meets Glamour at Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2023 Collection
Loewe unveiled its SS23 collection during Paris Fashion Week and it was yet another extravagant collection you would love to check out.
Loewe’s creative designer Jonathan Anderson presented his latest Spring-Summer 2023 collection during Paris Fashion Week. Although Loewe has been a mass appealing brand, this season the creative director wanted to reinvent the label again with his signature surrealist touch with outsized sculptural shapes and edgy silhouettes. Although in his endeavour to realign the brand, this collection has tilted towards extravagance and might not be a crowd pleasing collection but the Northern Irish designer showcased a lovely balance of aesthetics: conceptual and commercial.
“The erotic tension and precision of the anthurium flower dominates the LOEWE Spring Summer 2023 show space at La Garde Républicaine in Paris,” teased a caption on the label’s Instagram page to a live stream of the event.
The show took place at a cavernous all white space where models took to the runway by emerging from a square-shaped hole in the floor wearing mini dresses, micro hemlines, sculpted skirts, elegantly draped styles, tunics, tennis dresses in candy colours and much more. Pixelated hoodies, tees, and trousers were pulled from a digital 8-bit universe, while autumnal layering was magnified through sculpted garments that took on a life of their own, alongside dual-toned leather coats enhanced with exaggerated sleeves that dangled against the simmering floor.
And, of course, the worldwide known term “The Rosette Trend” was also present as a key element for the entire collection. Jonathan Anderson embellished everything from statement tops to neon slips with striking, sultry, anthurium flowers accent (also known as the “tail flower”) rather than the more expected rose. In particular, we saw this trend implemented in a crisp white mini dress with an exaggerated open bloom for its top. It also appeared on shoes and on super feminine tops.
Shoes were either crafted entirely out of deflated balloons, or made to look like inflated balloons encapsulating the foot. Ultra-short knit baby doll dresses in solid wool and striped knits, if they can even be called dresses, flounced alongside abbreviated hunting jackets with delicate resin floral tops underneath. Crewneck sweatshirt dresses featured cape sleeves that hung down to the floor, and a simple T-shirt neckline was exaggerated to cover models’ mouths. Draped minis in blue jersey and black dotted tulle had mountain ranges for necklines. The everyday and the mundane were closely examined under Anderson’s sartorial microscope.
Everything is reduced to build the new silhouette: small hourglass dresses, knitted pullovers, leather, and hunting jackets in mini versions. As regards technology, it appeared in the form of pixels that define hoodies in knitwear, t-shirts, and slipped trousers. The drapery is blocked from above to slide smoothly along its entire length.
Even mini-hunting jackets have caught the bug, devising new silhouettes with waists nipped and flouncy, echoed in floral, china-like bodices and wavy velvet evening gowns. Moreover, Anderson continued to explore the idea of inflation and deflation in the footwear by introducing a series of pumps in glossy red, black and matte clay that looked like the shoes had been inflated around the foot. The idea of an inflated sense of nature also came into play with a series of artificial and exaggerated florals, which were applied to strappy sandals and also affixed to the body on ready-to-wear.
Take a look at the Loewe Spring Summer 2023 collection below.
